Care instructions are small solutions to big problems. Care labels provide guidelines to consumers about apparel care, and the best cleaning procedures to be used for a particular combination of fabric, thread decoration and construction techniques. Following the instructions on the care labels is an assurance that the appearance and fit of the garment will be maintained after repeated cleaning treatments.

From a manufacturer’s point of view, damage to garments from incorrect cleaning methods can lead to complaints; costly customer returns and a bad image. Whereas accurate and clearly written care labels can prevent customer dissatisfaction. From a consumer’s point of view, accurate and clearly written care instructions serve as a cleaning guide and influence purchase. Garments with ease of care are often preferred over garments with complicated or difficult to understand care procedures.

Many different care labelling systems have evolved over the world. Some have been established as a governmental regulation, while others are international standards. Not all of them however, are mandatory.

This Bulletin Post is a comprehensive guide to the different care labelling systems, their usage and the newly developed Fabric Performance Codes.

• The country where the garment is sewn is the country of origin listed on the care label
• Care labels must be permanently attached so that they are easily accessible to the consumer at the point of purchase. Generally, it is placed on the side or bottom
• The manufacturer or importer who directs production is responsible for the accuracy of care instructions
• A product may be imported without a care label, but it must be attached before the product is sold

There are five care labelling systems which are generally used on care labels. These systems are:

• The International Care Labelling System
• The Japanese Care Labelling System
• The Canadian Care Labelling System
• The European Care Labelling System
• The American Care Labelling System

The International Association for Textile CareLabelling (GINETEX) is the world body which governs care labels since 1975.

Member nations of GINETEX are Belgium, France, Germany, England, Netherlands, Israel, Austria, Switzerland, and Spain.

Its objectives are to:

• Inform consumers on the correct care labelling of textiles through a system of uniform and simple care labelling symbols, independent of language
• Achieve and promote voluntary care labelling on an international basis through the uniform symbols of GINETEX, thus avoiding the use of different systems

The GINETEX care labelling system is based on the following principles:

• The care symbols provide information on the maximum permitted type of treatment
• The care symbols must always be used in full and in the prescribed sequence
• The care labelling must be clear, readily understandable, easy to use and not dependent on any particular language
• The care symbols must not leave room for possible misinterpretation by the consumer
• Uniform positioning of labels and harmonised use of the care symbols
• The uniform care labelling system using symbols must take account of consumer habits without using complex technical data
• The appliances used for textile care purposes must ensure the best possible implementation of the recommended care treatment
• Adaptations which are necessary to keep up with ongoing technical and economic developments must as far as possible be made without the use of new symbols and additions in the framework of the existing system

Five basic symbols are used in the International care labelling system in this order:

Note: The symbols for the International Care Labelling System are the same as those listed in the European Care Labelling System.

The Japanese system, like other care labelling systems must have symbols placed in a specified order. Labels should be designed based on the following convention:

• Symbols should be arranged from left to right according to the following sequence: 1) Washing, 2) Bleaching, 3) Ironing, 4) Dry-Cleaning, 5) Wringing & 6) Drying
• For coloured products which are not usually bleached, the symbol for possibility of chlorine bleached may be omitted
• For products which are not usually ironed, the symbols for ironing may be omitted. (Except ‘cannot be ironed’)
• For products which can be washed with water, the symbols for dry-cleaning may be omitted. (Except ‘cannot be dry-cleaned’)
• The symbols should be either in black or dark blue whereas the prohibition symbols are in red and on a white background

Washing (with water)
	Machine washable in maximum water temperature of 95°C		Machine washable at slow water current or gentle hand wash in maximum water temperature of 40°C
	Machine washable in maximum water temperature of 60°C		Machine washable at slow water current or gentle hand wash in maximum water temperature of 30°C
	Machine washable in maximum water temperature of 40°C		Should be washed gently by hand (not machine washable) Cannot be washed with water

Bleaching
	Chlorine-based bleaching allowed		Do not use chlorine-based bleach

Ironing
	Should be ironed at a temperature between 180°C – 210°C		Cannot be ironed
	Should be ironed at a temperature between 140°C – 160°C		May be ironed at 180°C – 210°C if a cloth is placed between iron and garment
	Should be ironed at a temperature between 80°C – 120°C

Dry Cleaning
	Can be dry cleaned Use solvent of perchloroethylene or of petroleum based solvent		Cannot be dry cleaned
	Can be dry cleaned Use only a petroleum based solvent

Wringing
	Wring gently by hand or for a short time by centrifugal hydroextractor		Cannot be wrung

Drying
	Hang dry		Lay flat to dry
	Hang dry in shade		Lay flat to dry in shade

Note:

Until July 1973 care labelling was not a legal requirement in Canada. After this date a new care labelling system was introduced. The new Canadian care symbol system used green (go ahead), amber (caution), and red (don’t try) with five symbols which were wash tub, bleach triangle, square dryer, iron, and dry cleaning circle. In 2003 the Canadian system was updated to harmonise with the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and (ISO) standards, and the colour code was discontinued.

Individual committees of the European Union are reviewing existing care label standards by collaborating with other international bodies so that they can create a unified system under the ISO scheme.

The symbols used in Europe are trademarked by GENETEX and a trademark fee needs to be paid to GENETEX, the trademark holder, if the garments are to be sold in a GENETEX country.

A correct care label for European countries is required to consist of at least four and sometimes five symbols in the following sequence: 1) Washing, 2) Bleaching, 3) Ironing, 4) Dry-Cleaning & 5) Drying.

Washing Process
	Maximum temperature 95°C Mechanical action normal Rinsing normal Spinning normal		Maximum temperature 40°C Mechanical action normal Rinsing normal Spinning normal
	Maximum temperature 95°C Mechanical action reduced Rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature (cool down) Spinning reduced		Maximum temperature 40°C Mechanical action reduced Rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature (cool down) Spinning reduced
	Maximum temperature 70°C Mechanical action normal Rinsing normal Spinning normal		Maximum temperature 40°C Mechanical action much reduced Rinsing normal Spinning normal Do not wring by hand
	Maximum temperature 60°C Mechanical action normal Rinsing normal Spinning normal		Maximum temperature 30°C Mechanical action much reduced Rinsing normal Spinning reduced
	Maximum temperature 60°C Mechanical action reduced Rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature (cool down) Spinning reduced		Hand wash only Do not machine wash Maximum temperature 40°C Handle with care
	Maximum temperature 50°C Mechanical action reduced Rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature (cool down) Spinning reduced		Do not wash Be cautious when treating in wet stage

Bleaching Process
	Chlorine-based bleaching allowed. Only cold and dilute solution.		Do not use chlorine-based bleach

Ironing Process
	Iron at a maximum sole-plate temperature of 200°C		Iron at a maximum sole-plate temperature of 110°C Steam-ironing may be risky
	Iron at a maximum sole-plate temperature of 150°C		Do not iron Steaming and steam treatments are not allowed

Dry Cleaning Process
	Dry-cleaning in all solvents normally used for dry-cleaning – this includes all solvents listed for the symbol P, plus trichloroethylene and 1,1, 1-trichloroethane		Dry-cleaning in trifluorotrichloroethane, white spirit (distillation temperature between 150°C and 210°C, flash point 38°C to 60°C) Normal cleansing procedures without restrictions.
	Dry-cleaning in tetrachloroethylene, monofluorotrichloro methane and all solvents listed for the symbol F Normal cleansing procedures without restrictions		Dry-cleaning in the solvents listed in the previous paragraph. Strict limitations on the addition of water and / or mechanical action and / or temperature during cleaning and / or drying No self-service cleaning allowed
	Dry-cleaning in the solvents listed in the previous paragraph. Strict limitations on the addition of water and / or mechanical action and / or temperature during cleaning and / or drying No self-service cleaning allowed		Do not dry-clean No stain removal with solvents

Drying Process
	Tumble dry possible Normal drying cycle		Do not tumble dry
	Tumble dry possible Drying at lower temperature setting

According to the Federal Trade Commission’s Care Label rule, care labels may be composed of either words or symbols. Irrespective of whether the content is words, symbols, or both, care instructions appear in the following order:

1. Machine wash / hand wash / dry-clean
2. Washing temperature (hot / warm / cold)
3. Washing machine programme (delicate / permanent press / normal cycle)
4. Bleaching instruction (do not bleach / non-chlorine bleach / chlorine bleach)
5. Drying method (tumble dry / line dry / flat dry / drip dry)
6. Ironing (do not iron / cool iron / warm iron / hot iron)
7. Warnings

In addition to the care label instructions, manufacturers and importers must provide labels that:

• Are permanently attached so that they can be easily seen at the point of sale. If the product is packaged, displayed or folded so that the customers cannot find the label, care information must also appear on the side of the package or on a hang tag
• Remain fastened and legible during the useful life of the product
• Mention the regular care needed for the ordinary use of the product
• Warn the customer about additional factors which may harm the garment

Since December 1996, a new system using only symbols and no words has been used in the United States of America. The revised care symbols developed by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) with their meanings are listed below.

The Premiere Vision Performance Codes were created to highlight specific properties or qualities of the fabric. These are value-added characteristics of the fabric which may or may not be visible to the buyer.

Premiere Vision has created 24 pictograms that are listed below with their meanings: