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This technical bulletin is a comprehensive guide to invisible zips including best practice insertion techniques, product information, Standar-standar and recommendations, plus Kesalahan-Kesalahan yang Sering Dilakukan dalam Penjahitan Ritsleting Tersembunyi.

Produk-Produk Ritsleting Tersembunyi Opti

Teknik Penyisipan Ritsleting Tersembunyi

Teknik Penyisipan Ritsleting Tersembunyi
1) A concealed zip gives an effective opening approximately 2.5cm less than its length. Thus for a 20cm opening a 23cm zip is required.	2) Do not iron. Heat or pressure can damage the teeth of the zip.	3) The correct grooved foot for invisible zips must be selected. The nose and the channels are there to help keep the teeth vertical while stitching.	4) The sewing foot should be centered properly by aligning the needle to the centre fin.
5) A balanced feed dog should be selected to obtain optimum appearance of the seam. This feed type will allow uniform pressure to be applied to the fabric and the zip, regardless of which side of the zip is sewn.		6) Turn the zip with puller to the fabric and fully open it. Align the edge of the zip tape to the selvedge of the garment panel.	7) Unfold the spiral teeth to be at right angles to the tape and lower the channel of sewing foot over the spiral as shown, with the nose of the foot above the top stop.
8) Once the grooved foot is positioned, commence sewing, back tack for approximately 5mm to secure the end of the zip.	9) Sew along the length of the zip, repeating on both sides. Back tack for approximately 5mm.	10) The correct stop position is 2mm before hitting slider.	11) The incorrect stop position is when the sewing foot is hitting the slider.
12) Use a half foot to close the seam below the zip.	13) Stitch as near as possible to the zip insertion seam, overlapping by 5mm, back tack to secure	14) Note that approximately 4 cm of the bottom of the zip will be unattached at this stage. The bottom tape extensions of the zip should be secured to the fabric on both sides. Otherwise seam failures are possible.
Para penasihat teknis kami selalu siap menawarkan bantuan dan dukungan yang dibutuhkan.

Kesalahan-Kesalahan yang Sering Dilakukan dalam Penjahitan Ritsleting Tersembunyi

Kesalahan-Kesalahan yang Sering Dilakukan dalam Penjahitan Ritsleting Tersembunyi
Kami sangat menyarankan untuk menggunakan sepatu khusus untuk Ritsleting Tersembunyi yang selalu memberikan hasil yang benar.
Masalah penjahitan		Menggunakan sepatu pasang separuh dapat menyebabkan jahitan tidak benar dan kain tersangkut di jalur slider, sehingga cabutlah mereka.
Masalah penjahitan		Care should be taken to not stitch through the zip’s teeth, to avoid slider jamming and damaging the tape.
Kerusakan jarum		Tidak menggunakan grooved foot yang tepat dapat menyebabkan kerusakan gigi oleh jarum.
Kita harus memperhatikan pada tahap desain ketika ritsleting mengalami penjahitan cross side atau masuk melalui pinggang
Bahan-bahan di jalur slider		Penjahitan harus menyisakan ruang untuk slider meluncur dengan mudah, terutama saat jahitan silang dan jahitan panel yang membentuk susunan kain multi-lapisan.
		Tidak boleh ada tali loop atau label yang dapat menyangkut di slider.
Benang longgar		Care should be taken to cut away all Benang longgar to prevent the slider from jam and failure.
Ujung pita longgar		Jangan membiarkan ujung pita ritsleting longgar. Perbaiki mereka ke dalam seam allowance.