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Pendahuluan
Benang jahit memiliki berbagai macam penjelasan. Secara umum, kami mengartikannya sebagai "dua atau lebih benang tenun yang dipilin bersamaan untuk membentuk konstruksi berlapis atau jalinan".
Meskipun demikian, saat ini terdapat konstruksi "Filamen Kontinu" yang dibuat dengan menggunakan teknologi, seperti pencampuran, penteksturan, dan penteksturan dengan menggunakan air jet/ jet udara yang dapat memproduksi benang konstruksi lapisan tunggal.
Coats memproduksi banyak jenis benang jahit berbeda dan hal ini akan dijelaskan di dalam buletin teknis ini.
Saat ini, sebagian besar benang jahit berbahan dasar sintetis, seperti poliester atau nilon, yang sebagian besarnya telah menggantikan penggunaan dari serat alami seperti katun dan linen yang sebelumnya menjadi pilihan bahan pembuatan benang.
Handicraft threads are still predominantly made out of cotton, especially when the handicraft work is done by hand. However, if the handicraft effect is being created by a machine, (as in the case of embroidery of logos), then synthetic threads are rapidly replacing cotton and rayon threads.
Bahan Baku
Beberapa karakteristik penting dari serat dan filamen yang digunakan untuk benang jahit adalah sebagai berikut :
- Elongation at break
- Elongasi benang saat putus
- Heat resistance and flammability
- Abrasion resistance
- Ketahanan terhadap abrasi
Penyelesaian pada akhirnya akan ditentukan oleh kinerja jahitan dan pelumas yang digunakan, tetapi kekuatan jahitan dan umur jahitan secara langsung berkaitan dengan sifat-sifat yang disebutkan di bawah ini.
Bahan Baku: Polyester or Nylon
Polyester Bahan Baku are initially produced using polymer chips or granules, which are then melted and fed under pressure through a device known as a spinneret.
Spineret merupakan piringan metal berlubang. Polimer cair dikeluarkan melalui spineret untuk membentuk filamen kontinu.
Untuk mendapatkan keberagaman dari benang jahit, lubang di dalam spineret berbentuk bulat, tetapi jika filamen yang sangat mengkilat yang diinginkan untuk digunakan untuk memproduksi benang bordir, maka jenis spineret berbentuk segitiga akan menghasilkan filamen trilobal.
These filaments are then cooled and collected together to form a continuous filament yarn. This is one of the main components for making polyester based sewing threads. This process is known as Melt Pemintalan.
Diameter dari filamen ditentukan oleh ukuran lubang yang ada di dalam spineret dan tekanan dari pompa.
To obtain filaments suitable for the production of Continuous Filament and Corespun sewing threads, the yarns are individually drawn to orientate the molecular chains to produce particularly high Ketahanan filaments. The Filaments that are used for the production of sewing threads have a Bundar cross-section and a smooth surface, making them more lustrous than the natural fibres due to enhanced light reflectivity.
However, for special end uses such as machine embroidery - multi-lobal Polyester cross-sectional filaments are available which offer greater light reflectance values than Bundar cross-section filaments.
Coats memproduksi berbagai jenis yang berbeda dari benang filamen kontinu dengan karakteristik fisik yang berbeda pula untuk memberikan kepuasan pada sektor tertentu dari industri benang jahit. Benang filamen kontinu utama yang diproduksi oleh Coats dibuat dari bahan dasar Poliester atau Poliamid.
Bahan Baku: Polyester
This continuous filament polyester can also be used to produce polyester staple fibre. In order to do this we take a number of melt spun continuous filament yarns which are then brought together into a tow or rope-like structure. This rope like structure is then drawn or stretched to align the molecular chain thereby increasing the Ketahanan of the filament. It is then crimped, given a crinkle, to produce a better frictional surface.
Struktur tow ini kemudian dapat dipotong untuk mendapatkan panjang staple reguler yang sesuai yaitu sekitar 38 mm, untuk mendapatkan kualitas terbaik yang serupa dengan serat katun, yang kemudian digunakan untuk membuat benang Spun Staple. Atau dapat direnggangkan hingga putus untuk mendapatkan serat yang lebih panjang, meskipun dengan panjang yang bermacam-macam, dan digunakan untuk memproduksi benang spun dari tow atau benang craq spun.
For sewing threads high Ketahanan fibre is usually used. Despite their differing characteristics all synthetic threads must be properly lubricated if it is to perform properly at the sewing machine.
Bahan Baku: Cotton
Katun merupakan serat alami dan merupakan serat yang digunakan oleh Coats di awal mengembangkan bisnisnya di seluruh dunia. Katun diproduksi dalam berbagai tingkatan yang berbeda.
For sewing threads, Coats selects from the world’s long and extra-long staple cotton crops. The cotton fibres are carefully selected based on their grade, strength, length, fineness and maturity.
Di bawah mikroskop, serat katun terlihat memiliki tampilan seperti pita yang diratakan. Dalam sayatan melintang dari serat katun, Anda akan melihat bahwa serat tersebut terlihat seperti tabung berongga yang kempis. Serat ini sangatlah halus karena memiliki diameter yang biasanya berukuran 20 mikron dan panjang serat rata-rata sekitar 38 mm.
Meskipun saat ini katun jarang digunakan untuk benang jahit industri, katun masihlah mendominasi pasar benang kerajinan tangan.
Pemintalan Serat Poliester
The process of manufacturing a spun polyester sewing thread includes the steps; Pembukaan, Pembersihan, 1st and penarikan tahap 2, Penguluran, Pemintalan, Clearing/Splicing & Winding, Pelilitan Jalinan, and finally, Pemilinan.
Pemintalan of Cotton Fibres
The process of manufacturing a cotton sewing thread includes the steps; Pembukaan, Pembersihan, Pembersihan, Penarikan tahap 1, Sliver Lap Forming, Lap Pita forming, Penyisiran, penarikan tahap 2, Penguluran, Pemintalan, Clearing/Splicing & Winding, Pelilitan Jalinan and Pemilinan.
Pemintalan Serat Poliester dan Katun
Pembukaan
Proses ini bertujuan untuk membuka gumpalan serat stapel dan mencampurnya bersama-sama.
Pembersihan - Cotton ONLY
Untuk menghilangkan kotoran, potongan daun dan biji yang akan dicampurkan dengan serat.
Pembersihan
Serat yang berbentuk lap kemudian masuk ke dalam proses Pembersihan, yang akan memisahkan setiap untaian serat dari untaian lainnya dan menghadirkan kuantitas kemurnian yang lebih baik. Semua serat tersebut dikumpulkan untuk dibentuk menjadi sliver atau tow, yang bentuknya menyerupai tali serat.
Penarikan tahap 1
Secara khusus, 6 atau 8 sliver digabungkan dan dicampur, kemudian ditarik dengan menggunakan sistem rol drafting untuk memproduksi sliver tunggal dengan ukuran yang serupa untuk sliver masukan tunggal. Mesin ini beroperasi dengan memanfaatkan sepasang penggulung depan yang berputar lebih cepat dibandingkan penggulung bagian belakang.
Sliver Lap Forming - Cotton ONLY
Sejumlah sliver dimasukkan ke mesin Sliver Lap yang akan mensejajarkan sliver tersebut pada satu sisi dengan sisi lainnya dan kemudian, mengulurnya. Serat yang telah menjadi bentuk lembaran, kemudian digulung menjadi apa yang disebut "Lap".
Lap Pita Forming - Cotton ONLY
These laps are then presented to the Ribbon/lap machine where a number of laps are fed together on top of each other to another drafting system similar to the Sliver/lap machine. Again, the output from this machine is a lap, which is the input package for the Penyisiran machine.
Semua proses ini dirancang untuk mencampur semua serat staple atau serat buatan dalam bentuk staple, mensejajarkan serat tersebut secara paralel satu sama lain dan meningkatkan keteraturannya.
Combing – Cotton ONLY
The next stage of production presents the laps to the Comber, which combs the fibres as they are pulled from the lap. The function of combing is to remove short fibres and to lay the remaining long fibres parallel to each other. The production from the comber returns the fibre to a sliver form.
Draw Frame - penarikan tahap 2
After Penyisiran [Cotton ONLY], a number of slivers are again combined and passed through the Post-comb draw frame to help eliminate irregularities and to ensure that the fibres are properly placed parallel to each other. The sliver produced here is approximately the size of the input sliver but is still many times heavier than the yarns required for thread.
For polyester fibres the sliver lap, Lap Pita and post combed drawing processes are replaced by the two draw frame processes. This means that the process route is shorter in the preparation section.
Penguluran
The sliver from post-comb drawing of cotton or penarikan tahap 2 of polyester are sent to the Speed frame where each individual sliver is presented to an individual set of drafting rollers and drawn down to a weight suitable for ring Pemintalan. These machines, sometimes referred to as “slubbing” machines produce a finer version of a sliver which is known as a Penguluran. Because at this stage the number of fibres in the cross section is considerably reduced the Penguluran is relatively weak. A slight twist is inserted into the Penguluran to hold it together and facilitate the Ring Pemintalan process, as it is wound onto a bobbin.
Ring Pemintalan
The final stage of yarn production is done on the Ring Pemintalan frame, where the Penguluran is drawn out to the required weight or thickness and the relatively high level of singling twist, required for both strength and balance in the completed thread is inserted. This twist is normally in the “S” direction, though some threads have their singles twist in the “Z” direction. The drawing or drafting down is done by a series of rollers running at different speeds which draw the Penguluran finer. After leaving the final drafting roller the singles twist is imparted creating a singles yarn. The resultant fine yarn is wound onto a ring tube. Jika serat staple yang digunakan berbahan dasar 100% katun, maka benang yang dihasilkan merupakan 100% benang katun spun staple. Jika serat stapel yang digunakan berbahan dasar 100% poliester, maka benang yang dihasilkan merupakan 100% benang poliester spun staple.
Core Pemintalan
If the thread is to be a Corespun thread, then a pre-stabilised yarn of Continuous Filament Polyester is fed in at the back of the front rollers on the ring Pemintalan frame, so that no stretching of the filament occurs, and the staple fibres in the Penguluran form an outer sheath around the filament core.
Jika serat staple yang digunakan berbahan dasar 100% dari katun dan inti filamen 100% terbuat dari poliester, maka benang yang dihasilkan adalah benang corespun Poliester/Katun.
Jika serat staple yang digunakan berbahan dasar 100% dari poliester dan inti filamen 100% terbuat dari poliester, maka benang yang dihasilkan adalah benang corespun Poliester, atau yang terkadang disebut sebagai Poly.
Benang Poliester Spun Schappe, Craq, dan Tow
Spun synthetic yarns can also be produced directly from the tow of continuous filaments supplied by the filament producers by stretching it to breaking point. This is done on special machinery where the tow is passed between two sets of rollers running at different speeds, the second set being the faster. Each filament is broken before it reaches the second rollers but is carried through by its neighbours. This results in a more variable but longer length staple fibres, which are then drawn out and twisted into yarns through a series of drawing and combining operations for subsequent standard processing into finished sewing threads. Such yarns are known as Schappe, Craq, or Tow Spun yarns.
Clearing, Splicing and Winding
The package from the ring spinning frame weighs between 100 – 150 grams. The purpose of the Clearing, Splicing and Winding process after spinning, is to take the yarn from the ring tubes, pass them through electronic fault detectors (Clearing) to remove faults which may impede the sewing performance of the final thread. The ends of yarn are joined together (Splicing), either due to the removal of a fault or just to join the short lengths of yarn from the ring tubes to produce longer lengths. This process is called Single End Winding.
Once we have our “yarns” the next stage is to convert these into “grey” or “greige” thread.
Assembly Winding
The packages (or cheeses) of “cleared” yarn from Single End Winding are sent to the Assembly Winding process to prepare a suitable package for the twisting machines. This process simply assembles the required number of ends of single yarn for the eventual thread and lays them side-by-side under equal tension.
Pemilinan of Spun and Corespun threads
All conventional sewing threads begin their construction cycle as simple yarns. As you’ve seen, Pemintalan together relatively short fibres or Pemilinan fine continuous filaments produces these basic yarns. Because of their fineness, these fibres and filaments have a large area of intimate contact with each other when held together with their axis parallel. This produces the coherence and strength combined with flexibility, which is essential in any good sewing thread, and it is the twist that is inserted in the basic yarns, usually in the "S" direction, which produces the consolidating force. This is referred to as the "Singling Twist".
The twist in the singling yarn is balanced by applying a twist in the opposite, usually "Z", direction when typically two, three or four yarns are combined to form a sewing thread. This is referred to as the “Finishing Twist”.
Pembuatan Benang Jahit
Without the correct level of Finishing twist, a conventional thread cannot be controlled during sewing. The individual plies would separate during their repeated passages through the needle and over the sewing machine control surfaces. Twist is therefore defined as the number of turns inserted per metre (or turns per inch) of the yarn or the thread produced.
Jika pilinannya terlalu rendah, pilinan benang bisa terlepas, berjumbai dan pecah, jika terlalu tinggi maka keaktifan yang dihasilkan di benang bisa menyebabkan gangguan, simpul, knot, atau kelebihan jahitan dari paket akhir.
As you can see the term "S" or "Z" twist direction is derived from the diagonal of these letters following the direction of the twist. “S” twist is sometimes referred to as right twist and “Z” twist is sometimes referred to as left twist.
Benang filamen kontinu yang ditunjukkan pada awal sesi ini juga dapat dipilin untuk membuat benang jahit filamen kontinu. Benang filamen kontinu juga dapat dirakit dalam 2, 3, atau 4 lembaran untuk membuat benang jahit filamen poliester kontinu atau benang jahit nilon. Benang jenis ini termasuk benang bertekstur.
Jenis-Jenis Benang Jahit
A whole range of sewing threads can be produced from the few Bahan Baku we’ve discussed today.
Corespun is the best general-purpose apparel sewing thread available in the market today. Corespun combines the strength and elongation characteristics of the Continuous Filament Core with the sewing performance and surface characteristics of the spun fibre threads.
Corespun is the best general-purpose apparel sewing thread available in the market today. Corespun combines the strength and elongation characteristics of the Continuous Filament Core with the sewing performance and surface characteristics of the spun fibre threads.
Dua konstruksi utama benang Corespun adalah Benang Poliester Filamen yang dilapisi dan dilindungi oleh serat Poliester atau benang Poliester filamen yang dilapisi dan dilindungi oleh serat Katun.
Staple Spun Polyester threads are manufactured from high Ketahanan staple fibres. A typical high Ketahanan fibre used for sewing thread would be 1.2 denier, which is a measure of the linear density and 38mm long with a Ketahanan of at least 7.5 grams per decitex. Some thread producers use a fibre length of 45mm or even 55mm depending on the machinery they have available. SSP threads are produced in a wide range of constructions and sizes, tex and ticket numbers, to accommodate most general sewing applications.
Staple Spun Cotton threads are generally from high-grade long staple fibres. These cotton threads are of three distinct types, Soft, Mercerised and Glace or Polished.
Soft threads receive no special treatment other than bleaching or dyeing and the application of a uniform, low friction lubricant.
Los hilos mercerizados se tratan bajo tensión, en una solución de soda cáustica que hace que las fibras se hinchen y se vuelvan más redondas en la sección transversal. Este proceso mejora el brillo y aumenta la resistencia de las fibras. La afinidad del tinte también se ve reforzada por este proceso.
Glace cotton threads are produced from soft cotton threads by giving them a polishing treatment. This process applies a coating of starch to the surface of the thread, brushes the fibre ends into the body of the thread and dries them to form a smooth surface on the thread. The polishing process increases the strength of the thread by about 10% but more importantly this process protects the thread from abrasion during heavy-duty sewing operations. Glace finishes are also applied to Polyester / Cotton corespun threads.
Benang Jahit Filamen Kontinu – Coats produce una variedad de diferentes hilos de filamento continuo con diferentes características físicas que satisfacen sectores particulares de la industria de los hilos de coser. Los hilos de filamento continuo producidos por Coats están hechos de poliamida [nylon], poliéster y rayón.
Benang Jahit Filamen Kontinu are significantly stronger than their equivalent size in Corespun, SSP (Staple Spun Polyester) or Cotton.
Some varieties of Benang Jahit Filamen Kontinu are:
Soft CF Thread which is the simplest form. In the production of a continuous filament yarn the filaments are gathered from the spinneret into a continuous strand, each strand comprising a specific number of filaments dependant on the desired characteristics.
These strands are then combined and twisted conventionally into plied constructions similar to the post Pemintalan processes used for spun threads.
Benang-benang jahit ini digunakan dalam aplikasi jahit di mana kekuatan jahitan sangat penting seperti pada produk alas kaki dan barang kulit halus.
Some of these threads are given an additional process called Bonding.
Dalam hal ini, benang jahit dilapisi dengan resin terlarut seperti Nylon atau Polyurethane untuk Benang Nylon Filamen Kontinu dan Polyester atau Polyurethane untuk Benang Poliester Filamen Kontinu.
Setelah aplikasi, resin dihilangkan dan dikeringkan yang memiliki efek menahan lapisan bersama-sama. Penerapan agen pengikat juga mengurangi abrasi pada benang jahit selama operasi penjahitan.
Trilobal Polyester is a specific type of Continuous Filament Polyester mainly used for embroidery thread.
Poliester Trilobal telah dimodifikasi untuk memaksimalkan kilau benang yang dibuat oleh masing-masing filamen yang memiliki penampang berbentuk segitiga.
Benang Jahit Filamen Kontinu are modified by further processing to produce what we now call Textured threads. These can be produced from Nylon (Textured nylon or TXN) or from Polyester (Textured Polyester or TXP).
These threads are designed to be bulkier and softer than the continuous filament twisted threads and can be produced in different ply constructions. The most common method of producing these threads is by false Pemilinan. In this process, the filament yarn is subjected to heat, by contact or by convection, to soften the filaments. The yarn is then subjected to a rotational force which results in twist being inserted. As the thread exits the Pemilinan zone of the machine, the twist is removed, but as the yarn is still in a thermoplastic condition the yarns memory retains some of the distortion imposed in the Pemilinan zone. This process results in the individual filaments adopting a crimped shape giving a soft bulky thread with high stretch characteristics. They are most suitable as under threads in lightweight chainstitching, overlocking and coverseaming operations.
Locked Filament Polyester sewing threads are produced by a technique involving the heating and stretching of the continuous filaments. The filaments are entangled and heat treated to produce a consolidated thread. Locked Filament Polyester threads have many of the characteristics and the performance of threads produced by conventional Pemintalan and Pemilinan routes but the thread does have a different handle or feel to it.
Pemprosesan dengan Metode Basah
All synthetic threads, Polyester / Cotton Corespun threads and some 100% Cotton threads are wet processed on what are called cheeses. These cheeses are produced on the Pemilinan frame or at a separate process called cheesewinding for dyeing.
Paket-paket untuk pencelupan digulung sehingga memiliki kerapatan dan permeabilitas tetap, yang memungkinkan cairan pencelup terpompa secara merata melalui paket-paket tersebut.
Pemprosesan dengan Metode Basah - Carrier Loading
A cheese dyeing kier is used to dye sewing thread. The cheeses of grey thread are stacked onto the perforated hollow spindles of the dye machine carriers and compressed under controlled conditions to create a sealed column of thread of uniform density.
Pemprosesan dengan Metode Basah - Dyeing
Tutup kier pencelupan dijepit. Cairan pencelupan dipompa ke dalamnya di bawah tekanan dan suhunya ditingkatkan ke suhu pencelupan.
Cairan pencelupan mengalir melalui tiap-tiap paket benang, berselang-seling dari dalam ke luar dan dari luar ke dalam pada interval yang telah ditetapkan sebelumnya. Bersama dengan suhu, pengaturan waktu, dan tambahan bahan kimia yang disebutkan dalam resep pencelupan dengan warna tertentu, siklus tersebut diatur secara otomatis oleh kontrol komputer dalam kier pencelupan modern. Ini akan memastikan pencelupan yang merata sesuai dengan standar.
When dyeing 100% cotton threads it is sometimes necessary to add bleaching cycle to the dye process in order to remove the natural colouring matters and chemical impurities in the Cotton fibres before they are dyed.
Different classes of dyestuffs are required for different substrates of sewing threads. Polyester is dyed using disperse dyestuffs at around 130°C whereas Cotton can be dyed with direct, reactive or vat dyestuffs usually at temperatures at below 100°C.
Tidak seperti benang jahit yang terbuat dari hanya satu substrat, benang corespun Poliester/Katun tersusun atas dua komponen berbeda, setiap komponennya memerlukan kelas pewarna berbeda, sehingga proses pencelupan menjadi lebih kompleks dan memakan waktu lebih lama. Pewarna dipilih untuk menghasilkan warna yang sama di kedua substrat dan dua siklus pencelupan berbeda dilakukan berturut-turut dalam operasi pencelupan yang sama secara keseluruhan.
The dyed packages are then uniformly dried using centrifuges to extract excess moisture and then the cheeses are finally dried using hot air drying systems or radio frequency dryers.
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Pemprosesan dengan Metode Basah - Mercerising
Benang Katun biasanya dimerserasi. Dalam proses ini, serat Katun dipenuhi larutan soda tajam, yang menjadikannya mengalami pembengkakan dan menguraikan lilitannya sebelum diregangkan dan larutan tajam dihilangkan.
This produces a stronger, lustrous thread with an increased affinity for dye liquors. Mercerising is usually done in hank form and the dyeing process is also done in hank dyeing machines.
Sebelum menjalani proses merserasi, benang grey katun 100% kadang digasi atau dibakar melalui api dengan gas yang dikontrol secara hati-hati untuk menghilangkan serat-serat menonjol dari permukaan benang. Proses ini selanjutnya dapat menambah kilau pada produk jadi.
Selama menjahit, panas yang cukup tinggi dihasilkan pada jarum mesin jahit dan suhu 330 oC sering dijumpai. Panas ini dihasilkan dari gesekan ketika jarum mesin jahit menusuk lapisan kain yang dijahit. Baik benang Poliester maupun Nilon akan meleleh pada suhu di bawah 300 oC. Kebanyakan kejadian putusnya benang yang terjadi selama menjahit disebabkan oleh melelehnya benang sintetis pada mata jarum ketika kegiatan menjahit berhenti sementara untuk mengubah arah atau memulai keliman baru. Putusnya benang tidak selalu disebabkan oleh tegangan benang berlebih.
To prevent thread damage at the needle eye and to help the passage of the thread through the thread path of the sewing machine, most threads are lubricated after dyeing. Most lubricants are combinations of Paraffin Wax that helps reduce friction and Silicone that promotes needle cooling. The lubricants can be applied at the dyeing kier, at a separate lubricant application process or more commonly at final winding. The Lubricant Content and the Friction Index helps ensure good sewing. The amount of lubricant applied is critical to successful sewing and the actual level of lubricant is carefully controlled.
Finishing - Final Winding
After the lubricant and any special finishes have been applied, the thread is passed to Final Winding where the thread is wound onto the support (cone, vicone, tube etc) to the length that the customer requires. The type of support used will depend on the substrate of the thread being wound and the end use of the thread.
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The final operation is Finished Goods Packing, where the product is labelled, wrapped and boxed prior to being sent to the warehouse for immediate despatch to the customer or for warehouse stock.
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Penentuan Ukuran Benang Jahit
Metode penetapan ukuran benang jahit yang dipilih untuk Coats Global Offer Product adalah Sistem Tex. Tex adalah bobot dalam satuan gram per 1.000 meter benang atau benang tenun. Semakin tinggi nilainya semaking kasar benang.
Satuan ukuran alternatif yang banyak digunakan untuk benang sintetis dan benang campuran sitesis adalah Tiket Metric. Nomor Tiket Metric didapatkan dari mengambil angka 1.000 yang dibagi dengan nomor tex dan kemudian dikalikan 3. Semakin tinggi nomor, semakin halus benang.
100% cotton threads still utilise the Ne [number] English Sizing System known as Hitungan Katun and Cotton Ticket number.
Tabel Konversi Benang Pakaian / Apparel
Berikut adalah tabel konversi ukuran benang pakaian. Tabel ini mencakup sistem Tiket AS serta sistem ukur jarum Singer dan Metric.
| Ukuran Tex | Tiket AS | Tiket Metric | Hitungan Katun | Jarum Singer** | Jarum Metric** |
| 18 | 120, 100/80 | 160 | 60/2 | 9 – 11 | 65 – 75 |
| 21 | 100 | 140 | – | 9 – 11 | 65 – 75 |
| 24 | 100, 100/60 | 120 | – | 10 – 11 | 70 – 75 |
| 27, 30 | 70, 70/40 | 100 | 60/3 | 12 – 16 | 80 – 100 |
| 35 | 70 | 80 | – | 12 – 16 | 80 – 100 |
| 40 | 50, 60/36 | 75 | 40/3 | 14 – 16 | 90 – 100 |
| 45, 50 | 40 | 60 | – | 14 – 18 | 90 – 110 |
| 60 | 30, T-60 | 50 | 20/2 | 18 – 21 | 110 – 130 |
| 80 | 20, T-80 | 36, 40 | 20/3 | 19 – 22 | 120 – 140 |
| 105 | T-100 | 30 | 12/3 | 21 – 23 | 130 – 160 |
| 120 | 16 | 25 | – | 22 – 24 | 140 – 180 |
| 150 | 12 | 18 | – | 24 – 26 | 180 – 230 |
*Needle size recommendations are nominal and ultimately depend on the sewing application.