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Thread selection for any specific application is based on many parameters, thread size is the primary consideration in achieving the functional and aesthetics requirements of the finished product.
Thread sizes are communicated through various numbers and numbering systems which are derived by relating its unit length and weight. It is important to know various numbering systems and their relationships in understanding thread size specifications; this Bulletin Post will serve as your quick reference guide.
Common Yarn Numbering Systems
Fixed Weight and Fixed Length Numbering Systems
All numbering systems used to indicate thread size are either ‘fixed weight’ or ‘fixed length’ systems.
| Fixed Weight Systems | Fixed Length Systems |
| In this system, unit weight is taken as fixed and its length is measured. | In this system, unit length is taken as fixed and its weight is measured. |
Systems under fixed weight:
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Systems under fixed length:
|
Example:
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Example:
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| In fixed weight systems, the yarn becomes finer as the count number increases | In fixed length systems, the yarn becomes coarser / heavier as the count number increases |
Generally, Metric count is used to describe synthetic, spun and corespun thread while English count is used to specify cotton thread. Filament threads are normally expressed with Decitex or Denier.
Resultant Thread Size
When more than one ply of yarn is twisted into a thread, finding the resultant size of the thread by considering all the plies becomes necessary.
- In fixed weight systems: Resultant size = Individual yarn count / Number of plies
- In fixed length systems: Resultant size = Individual yarn count x Number of plies
A particular resultant size can be made with any number of plies.
Count Conversions
Using the table below will enable you to perform a simple conversion from one system to another.
| Sistem | Tex | dTex | Den | Nm | Nec |
| Tex | – | dTex⁄10 | Den⁄9 | 1000⁄Nm | 590.54⁄Nec |
| dTex | Tex × 10 | – | Den⁄0.9 | 10000⁄Nm | 5905.4⁄Nec |
| Den | Tex × 9 | dTex × 0.9 | – | 9000⁄Nm | 5314.9⁄Nec |
| Nm | 1000⁄Tex | 10000⁄dTex | 9000⁄Den | – | Nec × 1.6934 |
| Nec | 590.54⁄Tex | 5905.4⁄dTex | 5314.9⁄Den | Nm × 0.5905 | – |
Ticket Numbering
Ticket numbering is a commercial numbering system. Ticket numbers are merely the manufacturer’s reference numbers for the size of a given thread.
The Metric Count, Cotton Count and Denier Systems use ticket numbering system to give an easy approximation of the specific size of the finished thread.
A ticket number in one type of thread will not be the same as in another. For example, Ticket 40 Cotton is not the same as Ticket 40 Corespun.
Ticket numbers resemble the fixed weight system.
They can simply denote:
- Higher the ticket number, finer the thread
- Lower the ticket number, thicker the thread
Converting sizes for synthetic products.
Arriving at a Ticket Number
| Tex | dTex × Ply (When 2-Ply) |
dTex × Ply (When 3-Ply) |
Total Decitex (dTex) |
Nomor Label | Calculation for Nomor Label |
| 40 | 200 × 2 | 133 × 3 | dTex 400 | 75 | (1000⁄40 × 3) |
| 60 | 300 × 2 | 200 × 3 | dTex 600 | 50 | (1000⁄60 × 3) |
| 80 | 400 × 2 | 267 × 3 | dTex 800 | 38 | (1000⁄80 × 3) |
| 100 | 500 × 2 | 333 × 3 | dTex 1000 | 30 | (1000⁄100 × 3) |
Note:
- To convert any Tex Number to a Ticket Number value: divide 1,000 by the Tex number and multiply by 3.
- To establish the Tex of a particular Ticket number, please contact your nearest Coats office.
Cotton threads are rarely used today, so ticket numbers for cotton threads are not discussed here.
Communicating Thread Size with Ticket Numbers
In the thread industry, different countries follow different ticket numbers. Knowing different ticket number conventions for a certain thread size and the corresponding Tex size will aid you in thread selection.