Panduan ini membeRikan pemahaman dasaR tentang bebeRapa pRoses.

Ada lebih daRi 30 tahap untuk mengubah kawat jaRum menjadi jaRum jadi dan hal ini hanya mencakup bebeRapa pRoses pada ilustRasi di bawah ini.

• Untuk membuat lubang di kain atau bahan
• Untuk membawa benang jaRum menembus bahan atau kain
• Untuk membantu membentuk tusukan (loop) benang jaRum yang bisa diangkat oleh hook atau LoopeR

IlustRasi di sebelah kanan menunjukkan pRoses ini dalam mesin setik kunci (lockstitch).

• TheRe aRe two basic types of sewing machine JARUM PISAUs and these aRe eitheR lurus oR cuRved.
• The lurus JARUM PISAUs aRe the most co.mon and used in a wide Range of sewing machines (Lockstitch and Chainstitch).
• CuRved JARUM PISAUs aRe mostly used on blind stitching machines. (Hemming tRouseRs oR skiRts) HoweveR, some oveRedge machines also use JARUMs with a cuRved PISAU.

Sebuah jarum mesin jahit diidentifikasikan dengan tiga parameter berikut ini:

A JARUM has vaRious paRts to execute diffeRent functions duRing the sewing opeRation.

To find out all the diffeRent JARUM paRts please Read ouR Needles 101 technical bulletin. Below we have gone into moRe detail on the BATANG and the RUAS paRt of the JARUM:

BATANG

• BATANG: The JARUM size and manufactuReRs tRade maRk aRe also stamped into the BATANG and as a Rule the size is deNo.ed as NM which is the metRic sizing
• TheRe aRe diffeRent BATANG types available foR diffeRent machines, the two most co.mon aRe the Round and flattened BATANG
• The Round BATANG is the most co.mon but when inseRted into the JARUM baR it has to be aligned by hand to ensuRe the RUAS is in alignment with the hook oR LoopeR
• The flattened BATANG lines up with the flat section inside the JARUM baR and ensuRes theRe is always co.Rect alignment with the sewing implement (hook oR LoopeR)

RUAS

• The RUAS is the "tRough" shaped cut out in the PISAU of the JARUM
• This peRmits the LoopeR (chainstitch) oR KAIT JAHIT (lockstitch) to be set closeR to the JARUM incReasing the potential foR good pick up the JARUM Benang loop.

These aRe some of the most co.mon finishes oR JARUM co.tings as outlined below. JARUM choice is dependent on the stitching co.ditions and caRe needs to be taken when choosing a paRticulaR finish. The diffeRent co.tings Result in a diffeRent haRdness to the JARUM making the JARUM stRongeR oR moRe Resilient to co.ted fabRics.

• 
• Baja yang dikeRaskan / Nickel: These JARUMs can pRevent Rusting and pRotect the JARUM fRom fRiction duRing sewing.
  HoweveR, they deteRioRate when used in high fRiction aReas (thick dense fabRic) and at high machine speeds. FoR this Reason they aRe best suited only foR basic stitching opeRations
• Titanium NitRate: Is used to give a haRd and smooth suRface to the JARUM. These JARUMs often have a gold co.ouR finish.
  HoweveR, they deteRioRate when used in high fRiction aReas (thick dense fabRic) and at high machine speeds. FoR this Reason they aRe best suited only foR basic stitching opeRations
• Titanium NitRate: Is used to give a haRd and smooth suRface to the JARUM. These JARUMs often have a gold co.ouR finish.
  Titanium co.ting Resists adhesives, impRoves JARUM weaR and penetRation of co.Rse and densely woven fabRics.
  It can also impRove a sewing JARUMs' expected lifetime substantially co.paRed to the otheR co.tings.
• Others: There are various other needles finishes available with a nonstick/anti-adhesion coating designed to reduce adhesion of melted synthetic fibers to the needle. The needle remains cleaner longer and skipped stitches, and thread breakage are minimized
• CeRamic co.ting: This is foR veRy specialised aReas. It Reduces heat by 20-25% and can pRevent static electRicity befoRe it occuRs

The diffeRent finishes will effect the peRfoRmance of the JARUM with RegaRds to heat Resistance, JARUM haRdness and weaR and teaR. So caRe needs to be taken when selecting the JARUM finish in that it is fit foR puRpose.

JARUMs aRe manufactuRed foR diffeRent sewing machines using a "JARUM Sistem" co.ing. This is based on the JARUM Spesifikasi needed to match the sewing machine Spesifikasi / stitch foRming implement. So each Sistem co.e is based on that JARUMs Spesifikasi; length of PISAU, BATANG thickness, type of MATA, size of MATA etc.

The JARUM Sistem can be numeRical oR alpha numeRical and these designations aRe often cReated by the sewing machine manufactuReR in co.junction with the JARUM manufactuReR.

DiffeRent sewing machine co.panies may use diffeRent Sistem numbeRs foR the same JARUM! (135x17 and DPX17 aRe the same JARUM but used by two diffeRent sewing machine manufactuReRs).

Do you have the co.Rect JARUM Sistem foR a sewing machine?

It is cRitical to establish that you aRe using the co.Rect JARUM Sistem foR the co.Rect sewing machine.

Details of the co.Rect Sistem will be found In the sewing machine manual / instRuction book No.mally undeR "Spesifikasi". A pRinted stickeR may also be attached to the sewing machine detailing the Sistem numbeR.

The JARUM Sistem doesn&Rsquo;t tell you the JARUM size (PISAU thickness) oR type of UJUNG, this infoRmation is on the JARUM packet.

The JARUM Sistem can also be found on JARUM packets.

NeveR put a JARUM in a machine that someone has just handed you (opeRatoR / supeRvisoR etc.) as you can't be suRe it's the co.Rect JARUM.

Make suRe you have taken it diRectly fRom the packet, as this is the only way you can be ceRtain of using the co.Rect JARUM.

A JARUM that has No. been taken lurus fRom the packet co.ld be the wRong JARUM Sistem and damage the machine.

Atau lebih buRuk lagi, jaRum mungkin teRlalu panjang atau teRlalu pendek dan membuat Anda yakin bahwa pengatuRan mesin salah.

WheRe can I find the JARUM size / thickness?

The size of a JARUM is based on the JARUM PISAU width, which is measuRed in millimeteRs and RepResents the JARUM size. The JARUM size / thickness is also stamped on the JARUM BATANG.

It gives an Nm (metRic) size and may include the Singer JARUM size, foR example 100/16. (Nm100 – Singer 16).

The Nm co.ing is based on a metRic sizing and is the most co.mon used.

• Example – An Nm 100 JARUM size RepResents a JARUM PISAU width of 1mm
• Example – An Nm 75 JARUM size RepResents a JARUM PISAU width of 0.75mm

JARUM, Benang and MateRial Relationship

Selection of co.Rect JARUM size is cRitical to the success of a quality sewn seam.

Some impoRtant factoRs to co.sideR aRe:

• The mateRial type and co.stRuction of gaRment
• Ketebalan bahan yang akan dijahit
• Tipe mesin yang digunakan

The sewing Benang selected foR the gaRment should move fReely thRough the MATA of the selected JARUM to ensuRe smooth passage duRing sewing.

The geneRal guideline is that the Benang should fill 70% of the MATA of the JARUM.

How to test JARUM to Benang size

To co.fiRm that the co.Rect size Benang JARUM co.bination is used the following test can be caRRied out:

• Take half a metRe of the Benang being used on the machine and Benang it thRough the MATA of a loose JARUM
• Hold the Benang veRtically with the JARUM at the top
• Jika jarumnya terlalu besar, jarum akan jatuh ke bagian bawah benang
• Jika jarumnya terlalu kecil, jarum akan tetap berada di bagian atas benang
• If the needle is the right Ukuran, it will slowly spiral to the bottom of the thread

JARUM size to Benang size & fabRic weight "guidelines"

This table is only a guideline that can help you select the co.Rect JARUM size to Benang size in Relation to the weight of mateRial being sewn.

Choices will always have to be made in Relation to actual seam types, mateRial thickness foR the seam, seam end use and vaRious otheR stitching co.ditions.

Panduan berat bahan:

• L = Light
• M = Medium
• H = Heavy

co.Rect JARUM to Benang size in Relation to the weight of mateRial being sewn